What to wear under your Imperial graduation gown

For bachelor's and master's degrees the Imperial gown is black and worn open at the front. Standing still, it frames you; the moment you walk, sit down or go up to the stage, it parts. Three parts of your outfit are therefore on display for the whole day, and in nearly every photograph taken of you.

The hood is where your faculty shows. Bachelor's hoods come in four versions, for Science, Engineering, Medicine and Business; master's hoods add a fifth, for Humanities. What tells them apart is a band of colour at the neck, which means whatever you wear just below your collarbone either sets that band off or competes with it.

Expect a long day, most of it standing. You check in at the Sherfield Building in a slot you're given in advance, usually two to three hours before your ceremony, and the university asks you to be on campus at least 90 minutes ahead and seated in the Royal Albert Hall 30 minutes before the start. Afterwards there's a Faculty Reception back on campus for those who booked one, and the photographs around Queen's Lawn and the Queen's Tower.

Then the month. Commemoration Day, for undergraduates, falls in October, when London averages 9 to 16°C and sees more rain than in June. Graduation Days, for postgraduates and PhDs, are in June: 12 to 22°C, with close to twice October's sunshine. Whichever is yours, bring a layer a guest can carry, because there's no cloakroom on campus and the Royal Albert Hall lets each person in with one bag of up to 25 litres.

For the camera, contrast is everything. Shades that differ clearly from the black gown photograph sharply; near-black shades blur into it. A dark look still works when there's something pale close to the hood: a shirt collar, a light top, an open neckline.

Start with the stage. At the Royal Albert Hall you cross it raised above the staff and the graduands waiting below, and Imperial's own advice is to pick a skirt or dress length you'll be comfortable with from that angle. A midi or a maxi settles the question; a mini works too, if you're happy with it seen from below.

Then think about shape. The gown already adds width, so pieces that follow your figure keep their outline when it opens, while loose, gathered fabric bunches underneath and photographs as bulk. A fitted midi in crepe or a structured knit, a column dress, or wide-leg tailored trousers with a close-fitting top all hold their line through a long day.

White and ivory are the safest choices beside any faculty's hood: they lift the black and leave the neckband to supply the colour. Soft blue, sage and stone are gentler alternatives. For something richer, emerald, sapphire and burgundy look striking against the gown, worn as a whole dress rather than as one bright note near the neck.

Imperial is clear that trainers aren't allowed when you cross the stage, so this is a day for proper shoes. Block heels, kitten heels and pointed flats all handle a stage and hours on campus; stilettos you haven't worn in yet are a risk. In October, be ready for wet pavements between campus and the hall, and choose a sole with some grip.

With no headwear to fit, your hair is entirely your call: down, up, braided or freshly cut, there's nothing to pin on top of it. Head coverings worn for religious or medical reasons are the exception to the no-headwear rule and are welcome. Keep jewellery fine around the neck, where the hood already fills the space, and remember that anything decorative, from a scarf to a sash, goes under the gown rather than over it.

A suit that fits is the simplest answer: shoulders that sit right, a jacket that closes without pulling, trousers that break lightly at the shoe. Against the black gown, a navy, charcoal or mid-grey suit looks sharp and leaves the hood's colour to itself. For October, wool is the sensible weight; in June, a lighter cloth in stone, grey or pale blue stays formal without overheating you in the hall.

Not a suit person? Smart trousers with an ironed shirt and a tie satisfy Imperial's "smart" too, and a waistcoat adds shape without a jacket. Jeans, shorts and trainers don't, so tailored trousers and leather shoes are the starting point.

The hood rests on your collar and drifts as you walk, sit and stand for photographs. Imperial's own checklist for the day includes safety pins to hold it in place, and a buttoned shirt gives those pins something to hold.

Your tie is the one place to pick up your faculty's colour if you'd like to: go for a quieter version of the neckband rather than an exact match. If you'd rather not, navy, burgundy and silver grey sit happily with every hood. Whatever you choose, it stays under the gown; Imperial asks that nothing, from scarves to decorations, is worn over it on stage.

Leather shoes, polished and already broken in, in black or dark brown: oxfords, derbies and loafers all work. Keep your shirt tucked so the line holds when the gown swings open, and pick a watch you're happy to see in the stage photograph, since the sleeve slides back as you cross.